The Top 5 Scenic Byways in Northern California
As the third largest state with hundreds of miles of coastline, nine national parks and endless scenic, cultural and historic attractions, it figures California has numerous beautiful drives. This story focuses on the byways in the northern half while an upcoming article will feature the southern part. Northern California is home to San Francisco, San Jose and Sacramento, the state capital. The renowned vineyards of Napa and Sonoma are here as well as the headquarters for Google, Apple, Netflix and Facebook. But despite its urban, high tech side, most of Northern California is wild and rural with rugged ocean shores, redwood forests, farmland and volcanic features such as lava tubes and bubbling mud pots which these five byways bring to life in spectacular fashion.
The Top 5 Scenic Byways in Northern California include:
- Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway – All-American Road
- California Redwood Highway
- Northern California Coast: Marin County to Mendocino & Fort Bragg
- Napa Valley’s Silverado Trail
- Ebbetts Pass National Scenic Byway
There are two worthwhile routes we’re not including. First, Tioga Road/Big Oak Flat Road is a National Scenic Byway that passes through Yosemite National Park. It showcases some of the park’s most incredible features, including a drive over 9,945-foot Tioga Pass, California’s highest mountain crossing. It’s one of the most scenic road trips in the state but there’s not a lot to write about except trees and overlooks. Check out Yosemite’s website for more details.
The other route is San Francisco’s 49-Mile Scenic Drive, developed in 1938 by the Downtown Association. It connects many of the city’s top attractions and viewpoints but isn’t really suited for RVs. For more information, go to the Fisherman’s Wharf website where you can download a map. The San Francisco Travel Association has also created a walking tour based on the drive.
Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway
187 miles from the California/Oregon state line to Lassen Volcanic National Park’s Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center and 97 miles, Bartle to McCloud River Loop, I-5, Weed and back to the Oregon border on US 97
Map it! – Francis Landrum Historic Wayside to Lassen Volcanic National Park’s Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center
Map it! – Medicine Lake/Lava Beds Road and CA 89 intersection (Bartle) returning to Oregon border
This itinerary is a continuation of Oregon’s segment of the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway, as detailed in our Oregon article. Officially, this All-American Road covers about 600 miles in both states, the majority in California: 450 miles. The part to focus on connects two national parks at either end, Oregon’s Crater Lake and California’s Lassen Volcanic with Lava Beds National Monument and several wildlife refuges and waterfalls in-between.
Picking up where we left off at the Francis Landrum Historic Wayside on the Oregon/California border, the byway crosses into the Golden State where it splits. If you stay south on US 97, you’ll eventually end up in Weed. However, for this itinerary we’ll go east first, returning later to this same location via Weed.
So, from the wayside, continue south on US 97 for a half mile and then take a left onto California State Route 161. Heading east, the byway parallels the border and soon, the Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge appears on the right. If you don’t see many birds or even a lot of water, don’t worry, a really spectacular refuge is coming up. But first, continue to CA 139 and go south to Tulelake. The distance from the historic wayside to Tulelake is about 23 miles.
The town’s main attraction is the Tulelake-Butte Valley Fairgrounds Museum with exhibits on homesteading, agriculture and the Modoc, the Native American tribe living in the area when settlers arrived. There’s also information on the Tule Lake Segregation Center, one of ten internment camps in the U.S. that imprisoned Japanese Americans during World War II. Though it’s not officially on the scenic byway, you can visit the site by continuing eight miles south of Tulelake on CA 139 to Tule Lake National Monument. The original jail, stockade and a couple of other remnants remain of the country’s largest and most controversial internment facility. The monument includes Camp Tulelake, which also incarcerated Japanese Americans as well as German and Italian prisoners of war. There’s a visitor center but the only way to tour the sites is with a ranger guide in the summer, so be sure to check the monument’s website for information and operating hours.
Back in Tulelake and the Tulelake-Butte Valley Fairgrounds Museum, the drive heads five miles west on East Street/Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway through farmland to the headquarters for the Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuges. For centuries, shallow lakes and freshwater marshes were the primary features of the area’s landscape. Then, in 1905, the Klamath Reclamation Project turned much of the 185,000 acres of wetland into agricultural fields. Today, less than 25 percent of the original lakes and marshes remain, and they’re preserved as several wildlife refuges scattered throughout the region, in both California and Oregon. The headquarters is located on the edge of Tule Lake refuge, framed by a stark volcanic ridge. The visitor center has interpretive exhibits, including many taxidermy specimens. Outside, trails lead along marshes where you’re sure to see birdlife. More than 350 species have been catalogued in the Klamath Basin with fall and spring being the most intense as up to three million ducks, geese and swans stop on their annual migrations. From the visitor center, the paved byway goes south as it follows the west shore of the lake. In about five miles, look for the Auto Tour Route, a gravel road into the marsh with overlooks.
Back on the main highway, the water, marshes and bluffs create dramatic views as the byway continues three miles south to Lava Beds National Monument. It’s another 10 miles to the visitor center as the road winds through terrain violently modified by volcanic eruptions over the last half-million years, creating craters, buttes and fields of black lava rock. For 10,000 years, the Modoc people and their ancestors lived here before fighting with settlers and eventually being forcibly removed. From historic battlefields, Native American rock art sites, hiking trails and campsites, there’s a lot that to explore above ground. But what really makes Lava Beds remarkable is its 800 caves. You’ll need to register at the visitor center where you can pick up free maps and headlights to walk through a few of the lava tubes.
From the Lava Beds visitor center, it’s about a mile west to FS-49 where the byway continues south another couple of miles to Mammoth Crater, the volcano responsible for much of the landscape. A short hike leads to the rim and views of the crater. It also connects to the 2-mile Big Nasty Trail, a looping hike through lava. Back on the byway, the well-maintained gravel road climbs 11 miles through wildfire-damaged and then healthy forest to Medicine Lake, an idyllic alpine setting with a beach, swimming, fishing, boating and camping.
Back on pavement, the road continues 31 miles south through dense forest to CA 89. The Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway consists of a couple of circular routes. Heading west on CA 89 leads to Mt. Shasta and Weed. This itinerary continues south and returns to this location later. So at the intersection, go left onto CA 89 and drive another 24 miles through Shasta-Trinity National Forest to McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park. Located on the shores of shimmering Lake Britton, the park has camping and hiking trails. But the prime attraction is 129-foot Burney Falls, and though it’s not the state’s largest or highest waterfall, many say it’s California’s most striking. Thus, it’s no surprise the park is very popular from April through October, and you’ll need to make camping reservations well in advance.
CA 89 then pushes 42 miles south through pine trees and farmland to the route’s other major destination: Lassen Volcanic National Park, still active after two million years with the most recent eruption between 1914 and 1917. At the entrance, the Loomis Museum has exhibits and information but it’s only open in summer. And though the highway through the park is a major thoroughfare, it’s not always open in the winter due to snow and ice. Lassen Volcanic is best visited late spring through early fall. As the road ascends 10,457-foot high Lassen Peak, it passes by lakes and meadows and through thick stands of living pine as well as severe damage from the 2021 Dixie Fire. Lassen impresses on many levels, from the incredible vistas to the hydrothermal features. Popular trails include hikes to Kings Creek Falls and to the top of Lassen Peak. The not-to-be-missed Bumpass Trailhead is a three-mile out and back trek to a rainbow-colored valley where boardwalks pass by steam vents, hot springs and mudpots. Next to the highway is Sulphur Works with smelly scents and mud that gentle gurgles or fiercely boils depending on the season and amount of groundwater. By October the pool is usually dry. At the park’s southern entrance is the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center which is open year-round.
From the national park, the scenic byway continues south to the tourist-friendly community of Chester and Lake Almanor. Susanville is the largest town to the east with lodging, grocery stores and fast food.
Returning north to the intersection of CA 89 and the road to Medicine Lake and Lava Beds, continue west 6.5 miles to the McCloud River Loop, also designated as FS 40N44. A lefthand turn leads through the forest to campgrounds, short hikes and a series of gorgeous water features along the McCloud River: Upper Falls, Middle Falls and Lower Falls. The paved nine-mile road goes back to CA 89 and then it’s six miles west to McCloud and another 11 miles to Mount Shasta and I-5. Then, the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway continues north on the freeway ten miles to Weed. All three towns are geared toward tourism with outdoor outfitters, lodging, restaurants and gift shops. The Weed Historic Lumbertown Museum is worth a stop if you’re interested in local history, particularly the logging industry. Always looming within view is nearby 14,162-foot-high Mount Shasta, another glorious volcano that’s the second-highest peak in the Cascades after Washington’s Mount Rainier.
From Weed, the byway continues 54 miles northeast on busy US 97 through grassland and farms before completing its long California journey at Francis Landrum Historic Wayside in Oregon. From there, US 97 continues 17 miles to Klamath Falls.
California Redwood Highway
93 miles, from Humboldt Lagoons State Park north through Redwood National & State Parks to the Oregon border
Like Yosemite, Death Valley, the Hollywood sign and Golden Gate Bridge, the California redwood is an enduring state symbol. Growing in a narrow strip from central California to southern Oregon, coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) forests narrowly follow the Pacific, relying on the maritime climate’s moisture, fog and relatively stable temperature. One of the premier areas to see them is California’s far northwest corner where several back-to-back parks provide intimate access.
From Eureka, it’s 37 miles north on US 101 to Humboldt Lagoons State Park. California is also known for its earthquakes and this region happens to be the U.S.’s most seismically active area. The state park lies where two tectonic plates meet, creating the largest lagoon system in the U.S. With ocean beaches, sand dunes, marshes, forests and spring blooms along the Azalea Nature Trail, there’s plenty to explore. There’s also a lot of wildlife to potentially see, like whales, elk and all kinds of birds. Fishing, paddling, swimming and hiking are prime activities, and the Stone Lagoon Visitor Center rents kayaks and paddleboards.
Immediately north of Humboldt Lagoons is the start of Redwood National & State Parks, a collection of preserves managed cooperatively by the National Park Service and California State Parks that includes Redwood National Park, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park and Jedediah Smith Redwoods Park. They form a World Heritage Site and International Biosphere Reserve protecting 45 percent of California’s remaining old-growth redwoods. A smart first stop for maps, souvenirs and a bathroom break is the Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center, the park’s southernmost exhibition and information location which fronts the ocean. Then, US 101, a.k.a. the Redwood Highway, moves inland.
In three miles, take a right onto Bald Hills Road and then it’s another three miles to one of the national park’s main sites, the Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail. Named in honor of the former First Lady for her environmental and conservation work, this easy 1.5-mile walk loops through a grove of redwoods and other conifers. Redwoods are the tallest trees in the world, reaching the height of a 35-story skyscraper with trunks more than 20 feet in diameter. And they can live some 2,000 years. As you marvel at their awesomeness, look for a plaque where President Richard Nixon dedicated the trail in 1969. Take note: Bald Hills Road is one of several scenic drives in the park, but it isn’t recommended for RVs or trailers. In fact, many side excursions are windy and narrow with few pull outs. For specific details, check out the park’s Scenic Drives page.
Back on the main highway, continue three miles north on US 101 and then take a left onto another one of these stunning but restricted drives. While trailers are prohibited, motorhomes 24 feet or shorter are allowed on Davison Road. This narrow, mostly unpaved seven-mile journey through meadows and redwoods leads to Gold Bluffs Beach and Fern Canyon. From May 15 to September 15, you’ll need reservations and free permits to explore the canyon’s 30-foot fern-covered walls and relax on the beach.
Returning to the Davison Road/US 101 intersection, go two miles to the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway. This must-drive is fine for any size vehicle except commercial trucks. For ten miles, the paved route runs west of US 101 before rejoining the highway. In the last century 95 percent of the world’s redwoods have been logged, and with numerous pullouts and hiking trails, the parkway gives rare access to some of the last living old-growth trees.
Near the parkway’s start, Elk Prairie is one of four developed campgrounds managed by California State Parks. Reservations are encouraged and no, you can’t set up a hammock in the trees! As the name implies, Elk Prairie is a good place to spot grazing Roosevelt elk and black-tailed deer.
When the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway merges back into US 101, the Redwood Highway continues north through the forest toward a couple of fun touristy places. In four miles, exit right onto Klamath Glen Road/CA 169 and go a very short distance to the Klamath Tour-Thru Tree where you can bike, walk or drive a small vehicle through a living redwood. Another five miles farther north on US 101 brings you to Trees of Mystery with ground-level trails, an elevated walkway at mid-canopy level and a gondola ride over the forest. There’s also a motel, café, gift shop and museum with an impressive collection of Native American artifacts.
From Trees of Mystery, the Redwood Highway presents impressive coastal views as it zigzags 16 miles north to Crescent City. The largest community in these parts has plenty to offer with a variety of lodging options, restaurants, grocery stores and more than 30 photo-worthy murals downtown. Two much beloved attractions include Rumiano’s Cheese Factory, California’s oldest family-owned cheese company, and Ocean World, a 60-year-old aquarium with guided tours.
From Cresent City, you can continue north on US 101 to Oregon and Brookings. The Redwood Highway designation actually switches to US 199, which branches to the right off US 101 four miles north of town and heads northeast through Smith River National Recreation Area to Oregon and Grants Pass. Along this route, it’s five miles from the US 101/US 199 split to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, with a large campground, visitor center and 20 miles of trails for hiking, biking and horseback riding. The Smith River is another important park feature. It’s the longest major free-flowing river in California with deep pools and exceptionally clear water prized for salmon, steelhead and cutthroat trout fishing, snorkeling and kayaking. From Jedediah Smith, more forest splendor unfolds as the Redwood Highway rolls 31 miles into Oregon.
Northern California Coast: Marin County to Mendocino & Fort Bragg
167 miles, following Route 1 – add 40 miles for roundtrip to Point Reyes Lighthouse
California’s Route 1 is one of the world’s most iconic drives. But the section most everyone knows about is in central California, following the Pacific Ocean from Morro Bay to Big Sur and Monterrey. This road trip profiles Route 1 north of San Francisco, after crossing the Golden Gate Bridge and entering Marin County. As you get farther north, it’s referred to as the Mendocino Coast.
Five minutes north of the Golden Gate Bridge, CA 1 branches off US 101 just past Marin City. Called Shoreline Highway, it twists and turns as it crosses the Marin Hills for seven miles to Muir Beach. One of the joys of this scenic drive is the numerous parks it connects, starting with Muir Woods National Monument, named after the pioneering naturalist and long-time California resident. It’s where many come to walk among the redwoods and so the monument can get very busy. Parking reservations are required and there’s a visitor center with exhibits, information and bathrooms.
As CA 1 begins its long, windy journey north from Muir Beach, it passes through Mount Tamalpais State Park. This large, diverse park with canyons, redwood forests, oak woodlands and grasslands is coveted by hikers and mountain bikers. It also has first come, first served camping and an outdoor theater with plays and astronomy programs. Next, Stinson Beach is where to go if you’re looking to sunbathe, surf, fish or play beach volleyball. The long, south-facing stretch of white sand is considered one of Northern California’s best swimming beaches. But keep in mind, the water is always cold! From here, the highway enters Point Reyes National Seashore and travels 14 miles north to the Bear Valley Visitor Center where rangers provide maps, backcountry camping and beach fire permits and the latest information on the park’s vast trail system across hills, valleys and beaches. More than 1,500 species of plants and animals have been documented at Point Reyes and hiking, camping, tidepooling and kayaking are just some of the ways to see them. Visiting the Point Reyes Lighthouse involves a 21 mile one-way detour from the Bear Valley Visitor Center. Built in 1870 and no longer in operation, the lighthouse lies at the tip of the Point Reyes Headlands and requires a mile-plus out and back hike after the long drive.
Continuing north 35 miles from the Bear Valley Visitor Center, CA 1 passes through a couple of small towns as it follows narrow Tomales Bay and then heads inland for a bit before returning to the coast at Bodega Bay. The fishing town has seafood, whale watching and ocean-themed gifts. For the next 17 miles, Sonoma Coast State Park is a series of sandy beaches broken up by rugged headlands with natural arches and secluded coves. There are more than a dozen access points from the highway. Along the way, CA 1 crosses the Russian River and enters Jenner, another small town fronting the Russian River State Marine Conservation Area. Goat Rock Beach is home to a colony of harbor seals which pup March through August and keep an ear and eye out for barking sea lions, gray whales, river otters and all kinds of wetland birds.
From Jenner, the road zigzags along the coast for five miles to Vista Trail, a worthwhile place to stretch your legs and walk the one mile loop with spectacular Pacific views. Another seven miles north leads to Fort Ross State Historic Park, a restored complex that was a bustling Russian American settlement from 1812 to 1841. There’s a visitor center and nearby campground. Seven more miles and you’re in Salt Point State Park, another gem with miles of jagged coastline, beaches and coves. There are 20 miles of hiking trails, an underwater park for diving and two campgrounds. To the north of Salt Point lies Kruse Rhododendron State Natural Reserve where hiking trails cut through redwood, Douglas fir, grand fir, tanoak and rhododendron, adding bursts of pink to the green forest with spring blossoms.
Highway 1 continues northward through Sea Ranch and Gualala with golfing, groceries, art galleries and gas. From here, it’s 14 miles to Point Arena and then another two miles to Lighthouse Road. Take a left and go two miles to the 150-year-old, 115-foot-tall Point Arena Lighthouse. Though no longer in operation, the site is very much alive with a gift store, Fog Signal Building Museum and 23-acre Outdoor Museum featuring art, gardens and hiking trails. You can also climb to the top of the lighthouse and stay overnight in a cottage or studio.
From the lighthouse, it’s about 7.5 miles to Manchester State Park with a long beach and sand dunes. It’s a great place to collect driftwood, enjoy coastal wildflowers, observe tundra swans and fish for steelhead trout. Another interesting fact: the San Andreas Fault, one of the world’s most famous earthquake zones, parallels CA 1 for much of this road trip. Here, the fault runs through the park and into the ocean.
The highway continues to snake along the coast for another 27 miles to the large and narrow Van Damme State Park, which stretches inland to the sea, following the course of the Little River. The conditions create a fern-filled forest as well as the odd Pygmy Forest where bonsai trees grow in a bog-like environment. Hiking, biking, birding, kayaking and watching salmon spawn are the main activities. There’s also year-round camping.
Van Damme is located just south of Mendocino, a delightful stop with a Victorian flair that’s been an artists’ haven since the 1950s. The town welcomes travelers with a range of lodging, restaurants, wine shops and galleries. The Kelley House Museum and Ford House Museum are two historic homes worth touring to learn about the area’s history. Ford House is also the visitor center for the town and Mendocino Headlands State Park, which surrounds the community and offers cliffside trails, a beach and wetlands. Look for birdlife, marine mammals and wildflowers.
Yet another enjoyable state park lies just north of Mendocino. Continuing on CA 1, the highway crosses the Frederick W. Panhorst Bridge which elegantly arcs over Russian Gulch Creek, 100 feet below. Russian Gulch State Park is another preserve stretching east as it follows the creek. With headlands and beaches at the coast and
a canyon, 36-foot waterfall and forests located inland, the park offers a variety of activities from beachcombing, fishing, diving and kayaking to hiking, biking, horseback riding and camping.
From Russian Gulch, it’s less than two miles to Point Cabrillo Lighthouse. It’s an active aid to navigation so only the lower level is open to the public, except for eight days a year when lens tours are given. The grounds also include hiking trails and restored buildings that are now museums and vacation rentals.
From the lighthouse, it’s a little over five miles to Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, a 47-acre spread overlooking the Pacific. It features four miles of trails that wander past numerous gardens of rhododendrons, roses, camelias, fuchsia and succulents. There’s also a Festival of Lights between Thanksgiving and Christmas.
The botanical gardens are just south of Fort Bragg, the largest city along the route with grocery stores, seafood restaurants, breweries, whale watching tours and deep sea fishing excursions. From Fort Bragg you can continue 43 miles north along the coast and then go inland where CA 1 rejoins US 101 in Leggett. Alternatively, it’s 35 miles east on CA 20 to Willits and US 101.
Napa Valley’s Silverado Trail
30 miles, from Napa to Calistoga, not including multiple side trips
Few regions in California and, honestly, the U.S. are more romanticized than Napa Valley, renowned for top-class wineries, restaurants and hotels. With rolling hills covered in vineyards, it can be a very scenic area to drive, once you escape the crowds on busy CA 29, the main thruway. And even if you’re not into wine or luxury travel, there are a lot of other options, many child friendly. Hot air balloon rides, camping, hiking, golfing and kayaking or paddleboarding down the Napa River are some of the outdoorsy options.
From San Francisco, it’s an hour’s drive northeast to Napa and an hour west from Sacramento. Before venturing up the Silverado Trail, there are a couple of interesting stops to consider in Napa. Books, chocolates, oysters and olives are just a few of the many treasures for sale at Oxbow Public Market. For art lovers, di Rosa Center for Contemporary Art features a permanent collection of Northern California works and temporary exhibitions. For the kids, Connolly Ranch is a working farm with educational programs and hands-on animal experiences.
When you’re ready to road trip, head east of downtown, cross the Napa River and then take a left onto CA 121. In a short distance, as CA 121 veers to the right, continue north onto Silverado Trail. It parallels CA 29 from Napa to Calistoga, but while the state highway runs directly from town to town, Silverado is more of a country road, traveling through the eastern foothills with few traffic lights and bike lanes if you care to cycle. It dates back to 1852 and was the first permanent route between Napa and Calistoga. Wineries and tasting rooms are spread along the trail’s 30 miles, starting with Judd’s Hill and MadoroM Vineyards & Winery. Four miles north of MadoroM is Clos du Val in the Stags Leap District, a famous concentration of wineries designated as an American Viticultural Area in 1989.
About four miles from Clos du Val, take a left onto Yountville Cross Road and go a mile to the Napa River. You’ll see parking for the 73-acre Napa River Ecological Reserve, which looks a lot like the valley before it was developed. The reserve protects one of the area’s last remaining woodland and riparian habitats and is open for hiking, wildlife viewing, swimming and fishing. It’s worth continuing another mile into Yountville, a quaint little town with a very famous restaurant. For years, Thomas Keller’s French Laundry has been one of America’s most celebrated dining establishments and if you can’t get a reservation, try down the street at Bouchon Bistro, another of Keller’s stellar properties. Nearby, the Napa Valley Museum is the place to learn about the region’s history, geology and the evolution of the agricultural and viticulture industries. But it’s also hosted traveling and rotating exhibitions on such topics as Julia Childs, American military dogs and the Disney film, Pollyanna, which was filmed around the valley. So check the website for current shows.
Back on the Silverado Trail, it’s less than half a mile from the Yountville Cross Road intersection to another stop that has nothing to do with wine. The California Department of Fish and Wildlife operates Silverado Fisheries Base, the primary hatchery for the San Francisco Bay Area, where visitors can see how rainbow trout and Chinook and kokanee salmon are raised and then released into local waters.
Next, look for two more prestigious vineyards, ZD Wines, particularly prized for its cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir, and Mumm Napa, which produces sparkling wines. For another outdoor adventure, just past Mumm Napa take a right onto CA 128 for a quick detour to Lake Hennessey, a large reservoir for kayaking, canoeing and boating. If you stay on Silverado Trail, from Mumm Napa it’s about a mile to the turnoff for Auberge du Soleil, perhaps Napa Valley’s most luxurious resort with food and views to match. Farther down Silverado Trail is Joseph Phelps, another top vineyard and then Meadowood Napa Valley, which gives Auberge du Soleil a run for its money in the sumptuous resorts category.
For something more low key, drive into nearby St. Helena and visit the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum with exhibits, artwork, rare books and memorabilia from the Scottish author who penned Treasure Island, Kidnapped and The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. St. Helena’s enticing downtown is worth walking around, too, with gift shops, food stores, galleries and restaurants.
Continuing north ten miles, the Silverado Trail passes many more wineries on its way to the drive’s end in Calistoga, another charmer with cafes, coffee, mineral spas and hot mud baths. Napa Valley owes its fertile, grapevine-loving soil to its volcanic past, and geothermal activity still powers the resort town. There’s even the Old Faithful Geyser which the National Geographic Society declared one of only three “faithful” geysers in the world because of its regular eruptions every 15 to 30 minutes. The site is a full-fledged tourist attraction with an animal farm, gardens, geology museum and bocce courts. The Sharpsteen Museum is also worth dropping by. It was created and built by Ben Sharpsteen, an animator, director and producer for The Walt Disney Company who won 11 Oscars. Through displays and an extensive diorama, Sharpsteen’s museum relates the history of Calistoga and its transformation into a hot springs resort.
Three nearby state parks are worth exploring, too. Northwest of Calistoga lies 4,342-foot Mount St. Helena. It’s the showpiece of Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, named in honor of the author who spent his honeymoon here with wife, Fanny, in 1880. Mountain biking, rock climbing and wildlife viewing are the main activities. A popular but difficult hike goes five miles to the top of Mount St. Helena offering views of the Bay Area and even Mount Shasta on a clear day.
Go four miles east of Calistoga to Bothe-Napa Valley State Park for hiking, biking and horseback riding. There’s also a campground, visitor center, pool and Native American Plant Garden. Nearby and open only on weekends, Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park features a working 1846 mill that Napa Valley settlers used to grind grain into meal and flour. The park has historical tours and other educational activities as well as hiking.
Ebbetts Pass National Scenic Byway
67 miles, from Woodfords near the California/Nevada state line to Arnold
This short, eye-popping road trip through the Sierra Nevada Mountains is designed for motorcycles, cars, pickups and small RVs. Leave the big rigs behind because this drive gets twisty and narrow as it crosses Ebbetts Pass: elevation 8,730 feet. Part of the highway is closed in winter, too. Navigating the route from north to south, start in Woodfords, 24 miles south of Lake Tahoe. Go south on CA 89 for 11 miles and then continue south on CA 4 when the highway splits. From here, the byway climbs more than 3,000 feet as it ascends into the Sierras, passing through Silver Creek Canyon and various zones of biodiversity featuring sagebrush, juniper, pine, aspen and mountain hemlock. Thirteen miles from the CA 4 and CA 89 intersection, the byway reaches Ebbetts Pass and begins dropping in elevation through Stanislaus National Forest. In addition to impressive vistas, the terrain features lakes and streams with trout fishing, whitewater rafting and hiking trails. Summer wildflowers and fall colors are big draws, too. Ebbetts Pass also crosses the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail which runs 2,650 miles from Mexico to Canada and is on the bucket list of many backpackers.
From the summit, the scenic byway continues 18 miles to Bear Valley Mountain. While better known as a ski resort, there are plenty of summer and fall activities, including hiking, backpacking, rock climbing, bouldering, trail running, biking, tennis and pickleball. There’s also an 18-hole disc golf course. This side of the Cascade Range sucks up moisture, too, so the west is always wetter than the east, which is reflected in the lush vegetation. Oaks and bigleaf maples line the route and soon you’ll see giant sequoias, the largest lifeforms on Earth. About 17 miles from Bear Valley, look for evidence of a massive landslide that happened in 1997.
In another six miles, you’ll reach Calaveras Big Trees State Park, home to two groves of giant sequoias. Also called Sierra redwoods (Sequoiadendron giganteum), the trees once lived throughout the Northern Hemisphere, but today only 73 groves remain, and they’re all scattered along the Sierra Nevada’s western slopes. Giant sequoias grow at elevations between 4,600 and 7,050 feet and can live to be 3,000 years old. The tallest tree reaches the height of a 31-story building while the widest measures 31.4 feet. The state park has campgrounds, campsites, cabins and hiking trails for marveling at these massive beauties.
From Calaveras Big Trees, it’s three miles to Arnold and the byway’s end. The tourism-centric town has restaurants, fuel and several places to stay. Nearby, White Pines Lake is a sparkling blue gem surrounded by forest where locals and visitors come to fish, swim, kayak, paddleboard, hike, picnic and play disc golf. On the lake’s southern shore is the Sierra Nevada Logging Museum which tells the history of the region’s lumber industry from the mid-1800s to today. It’s open April 1 through Thanksgiving weekend. The museum is also the start of the 17-mile Arnold Rim Trail. Developed by community volunteers for hikers, backpackers, bikers and horseback riders, it winds through old-growth forest and canyons with excellent views of the surrounding valley. From Arnold, continue west on CA 4 for 70 miles to I-5 and the next big city, Stockton.
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